| Timetables, Entries and Results of your sport in the grey block on the right: ">Timetable/Entries/Results<". |
Dates of Event
Tuesday, 3 August 2010 - Qualifying round Climbing
Wednesday, 4 August 2010 - Semi-final round Climbing; open qualifying round Bouldering
Thursday, 5 August 2010 - Final rounds Climbing and Bouldering
Venue
Kletterhalle KletterFABRIK Koeln, Licht Strasse 25, 50825 Cologne-Ehrenfeld
(4.3 kms from Neumarkt)
Transportation
Take tram line 3 or 4 to station "Venloer Strasse/Guertel" (10 mins. from Neumarkt, then 5 mins. on foot)
or take tram line 13 to station "Weinsbergstrasse" (then 4 mins. on foot) or use suburban S-Bahn 12 train to station "Bahnhof Koeln-Ehrenfeld" (then 5 mins. on foot)
for more detailed directions click here.
Categories and Divisions of Competition
Pre-requisites for participation:
Performance categories:
For an estimate of which category you belong to, take the highest level of difficulty from your top performance in an indoor facility. For a rough orientation use the following table for a preliminary estimate.
| Women |
Men | ||
| Bouldering | Difficulty Climbing | Bouldering | Difficulty Climbing |
| Class A, 7+ bis 11 | Class A, 7+ bis 11 | ||
| Class B, 6- bis 7 | Class B, 6- bis 7 | ||
| Class C, 1 bis 5+ | Class C, 1 bis 5+ | ||
NOTE:
Use the table of performance classes above as a guide only. After the close of registration, the performance classes will be adjusted according to how many people have registered in each class. You are assured that no one will be required to climb above his or her skill level.
Climbing:
For women as well as men there is the chance to choose between 3 different performance classes : A, B and C. After we have received your regristration, you will be contacted in order to place you in your performance class. In addition we need to know the following things...** see explanation below
(If you register for level A, please also indicate the degree of difficulty in lead climbing)
In the course of the competition, you will climb 6-8 routes. If you qualify for the semi final or later for the final you will climb more routes. Until the final all routes will be climbed via top rope and you may watch the other climbers. A try out is not permitted. The final will be on sight. Level A finals will be lead climbing only. Levels B and C will climb top rope.
Men and women will climb together, but will be evaluated seperately. The evaluation will be determined by the level of difficulty and the height achieved with time being considered in only extreme close cases. There will be medals awarded in every level.
Bouldering:
The boulder competition will be held over two days. On the first day, 15 problems of various degrees of difficulty will have to be solved in an open qualification round.
Men and women will boulder together.
Every participant carries a scoring card, on which the number of succesfully completed boulders and the number of attempts will be documented. The number of attempts will only
be relevant in case of a tie. Evaluation will be based on Flash, Top and zone grip (bonus hold). To finish the boulder, the tophold shall be held in a stable manner with both hands.
The finals will be comprised of 4 problems that cannot be viewed in advance (Isolation). It starts with a common observation time for the boulder problems during 8 minutes.
Participants have 6 minutes for each boulder problem to solve. There is no limitation of the number of attemps. Men and women will be evaluated and scored separately and one after another.
Terminology:
| Afterwork | Method of competition where climbers have the ability to practice the route be competing. |
| Redpoint | To complete a lead climb without falling or resting on the rope (hangdogging); previous attempts are allowed. |
| On-sight: | A clean ascent, with no prior practice or beta, and without having seen other competitors complete the route. |
| Top Rope: | The climbing of a route from a fixed anchor point above the route. |
| Lead Climbing: | The climbing of a route from a fixed anchor point below the route and in which the climber places anchors and attaches the belay rope as they climb. |
|
Isolation: |
Area in which the climber/boulderer can train and warm-up without seeing the competition routes/problems or other athletes during competition. |
| Bouldering: | Method of climbing on large boulders without the use of ropes, commonly practiced up to a height of 4 meters above a soft or padded floor; a boulder problem normally contains 5-15 grips; this method of climbing showcases the climber's strength and creativity. |
| Flash (bouldering): | To successfully and cleanly complete a problem/route on the first attempt, either with or without previous problem/route knowledge, or watching other climbers. |
Participation
Bouldering: minimum 10, maximum 60 athletes; difficulty climbing: minimum 40, maximum 140 athletes. Athletes may compete in both climbing and bouldering competitions. Basic practical knowledge of climbing safety is required (top rope).
Rules
The Sport Climbing events will be run according to the rules of the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA), in conjunction with the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC)
http://www.theuiaa.com
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org
Special rules for Difficulty Climbing: All climbers in the qualifying and semi-final rounds, in all levels (A-C), will climb using top rope. Final rounds will be on-sight, A-level athletes will lead climb, B and C levels will use top rope. Special rules for Bouldering: Completed boulder problems will be recorded on a scorecard. Climbers will be judged according to zone-grip, top/flash.
Equipment
Competition ropes will be supplied by the event organizers. All other clothing and equipment must be provided by participants. Complete climbing kit must adhere to UIAA standards.
Services
Restaurants and supermarkets near-by. Limited number of lockers available in the climbing hall. If necessary, climbers may also rent equipment from the venue for a nominal fee.
First-Aid / Safety
First-aid stations and paramedics will be at venue.
Tickets
Entrance to the tournament is free for all spectators, subject to space available and security regulations.
All information subject to change. All rights reserved. Currently valid stipulations and conditions for sports events and tournaments can be found on our website. If you have any questions, please consult our FAQs. If you don't find the answer there, you may contact us using the e-mail function on our website. If you would like to get the newsletters on a regular base, please feel free to sign in for this service here.
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