Cologne Cathedral, known by locals as the Dom, is the best starting position if you would like to discover the city’s striking gay and lesbian hot spots.
Walking along the rear side of the Dom, past the Museum Ludwig, follow the stairs down to the Rheingarten. Here, in the shadow of the impressive Hohenzollern Bridge, you will find the Memorial for Gay and Lesbian Victims of Nazism. Its shape is reminiscent of the pink triangle, which was used by the Nazis to designate homosexuals. This is where, on numerous occasions throughout the year, spokespersons of the gay and lesbian scene, as well as representatives of the city of Cologne, commemorate those who were persecuted and murdered.
About 250 metres upstream, following the water front towards the Deutzer Bridge, the cobbled Markmannsgasse is what is called “kaltes Eck” – the “cold corner”. This memorial was designed by artist Tom Fecht in memory of people who have died of AIDS. Twice a year, during ColognePride in the summer and on World AIDS Day on December 1st, stones engraved with the names of the deceased are added to the field of cobbled stones as part of a memorial service.
Markmannsgasse will then lead your way onto Heumarkt, the largest square in Cologne and the summer home of the CSD main stage. Situated directly at Heumarkt, the “Verquer” is Cologne’s oldest gay and lesbian pub, which with its large outdoor seating, is especially inviting in the summer. From here you are within easy reach of the many bars and clubs that have marked the Old Town as the centre of Cologne’s leather and fetish scene.
On passing Heumarkt, Gürzenichstraße leads you straight onto Schildergasse, Germany’s most visited shopping mile. At the end of Schildergasse your walk will lead you to Neumarkt, one of the liveliest areas in Cologne due to the central traffic junction and covered shopping centres of Olivandenhof and Neumarktpassage.
If you prefer thing more peaceful and have a thing for the unusual and extravagant, walk past the Apostelnkirche into the boutique district around Mittelstraße, Pfeilstraße and Ehrenstraße. This is where gay and lesbians are most influencing Cologne’s city life. The second gaylesbian centre after the Old Town is opening as you walk towards Rudolfplatz.
Bars, cafes, restaurants, clubs, saunas and shops are closely located within a stone’s throw of each other.
Crossing the overhead tram line and main road that runs next to the square, a passageway below the Sparkasse building leads you onto Schaafenstraße, well-known as the centre of Cologne’s gay bar scene.
With most of the bars being closed during the day, take the opportunity to walk to Jean-Claude-Letist-Platz.
The square is easily reached following Lindenstraße, the extension of Schaafenstraße on the other side of the inner city ring. This little square with its lovely trees was named after a Cologne activist with Belgium origin, who during his lifetime was a strong supporter of the gay movement and AIDSHilfe foundation. Feeling hungry after this city stroll? Why not grab something yummy and inexpensive to eat at the AIDS-Hilfe foundation’s Rainbow Café, Beethovenstraße 1. For yet more city discoveries, it is then best to go back to Rudolfplatz via Händelstraße and Aachener Straße.
